20 Suspension Saving Habits That Make Your Car Ride Smoother
Hidden suspension damage costs drivers thousands every year. Learn 20 quick habits that keep your ride smooth, your tires aligned, and your wallet safe. Drive smarter, spend less, and avoid repairs before they start.
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Quick Takeaways
- Small habits prevent the big bills: ride height checks, greasing joints, rustproofing, and replacing parts in pairs.
- Tires, temperature, and technique matter: warm up in the cold, skip “rubber-band” sidewalls, release the brake before bumps.
- After any big hit, inspect fast — then run your VIN for free fixes and recalls.
20 Suspension Saving Habits
20) Let the Suspension Breathe
Why: Braking into a pothole pre-compresses the springs and spikes impact loads (40–50g at the hub), risking bent rims and damaged bushings or ABS sensors.
How: Ease off the brake ~1 second before the bump so the suspension can rebound and absorb the hit. Re-apply gentle braking after the wheel clears.
When: Broken pavement, speed humps, tracks, or manhole covers.
Result: Smoother impacts, fewer bent rims, less shock to chassis parts.
Action: Practice looking 3–4 cars ahead and time a quick lift before rough patches.
19) Replace Worn Bump Stops
Why: Small rubber bump stops prevent harsh bottom-outs. When they crack (60–80k miles), dips can blow struts or dent towers.
How: Whenever struts are out, install new bump stops and dust boots — labor is already free.
When: With strut replacement or rebuilds; inspect annually in salty climates.
Result: Protects dampers, towers, and alignment hardware.
Action: Add bump stops/boots to your parts list any time you price struts.
18) Grease Serviceable Joints
Why: Ball joints and tie rods ingest water and grit once boots crack. Old grease turns abrasive and metal wears fast.
How: If parts have zerk fittings, pump fresh grease every oil change until old grease purges.
When: Every 5–7k miles; more often for off-road or salted roads.
Result: Tighter steering and joints that can last 200k+ miles.
Action: Check for zerks and add “grease joints” to your oil-change checklist.
17) Rustproof Before Winter
Why: Salt fuses bolts, pits springs, and locks alignment cams — turning a $10 bolt into an $1,800 job.
How: Each fall, rinse the underbody, dry it, then mist coils, bolts, and arms with lanolin-based inhibitor.
When: Before first salting; touch up mid-winter.
Result: Easier maintenance and longer suspension life.
Action: Put “underbody corrosion mist” on your fall checklist.
16) Rejuvenate Rubber Parts
Why: Heat and salt dry out bushings and boots. Petroleum swells and destroys rubber.
How: Twice a year, wipe visible rubber with a rubber-safe conditioner to restore flexibility and seal cracks.
When: Spring and fall.
Result: Quieter ride and fewer failures.
Action: Keep rubber conditioner and microfiber in your garage caddy.
15) Check Ride Height at Oil Changes
Why: Springs sag slowly; a ¼-inch drop can shift camber nearly a degree and scallop tread in 5k miles.
How: On level ground, measure hub → fender lip at all four corners and log it.
When: Every oil change.
Result: Early warning on tired springs/shocks before tires get eaten.
Action: Add a “ride height” column to your maintenance log.
14) Replace Shocks Before They Beg
Why: Dampers fade gradually. By 50–60k miles stopping distances grow and tires may skip over bumps.
How: Replace all four on schedule and align afterward.
When: ~60k miles; sooner if towing or rough roads.
Result: Restored handling, shorter stops, and longer tire life.
Action: Price a full set + alignment instead of one-off replacements.
13) Torque Bushings at Ride Height
Why: Tightening arms with wheels hanging twists rubber from neutral and cracks it from inside.
How: Final-torque with the car’s weight on wheels or stands under arms.
When: Any time arms or bushings are off.
Result: Doubled bushing life and alignment that stays true.
Action: Remind your shop: torque at ride height.
12) Support Suspension During Storage
Why: Frame stands stretch bushings and dry shock seals.
How: Place stands under arms/axle so suspension sits at ride height; mist exposed metal with inhibitor.
When: Storage longer than a week or wheels off for days.
Result: Supple bushings and consistent ride height.
Action: Move stands under arms before walking away.
11) Skip the Rubber-Band Tire Trend
Why: Ultra-low sidewalls transfer impacts to struts, bearings, and bushings.
How: Stay near OEM with 45-series or taller; forged wheels reduce weight if upsizing.
When: At tire/wheel purchase.
Result: Quieter ride, fewer failures, cheaper tires.
Action: Ask shops to price a taller sidewall option.
10) Replace Parts in Pairs
Why: One fresh damper fights a tired one, causing uneven wear.
How: Replace left/right together, then align.
When: Any time a single corner fails.
Result: Balanced ride, longer life.
Action: Budget for pairs.
9) Fix Small Fluid Leaks Early
Why: Oil and steering fluid soften bushings, turning them to putty.
How: At oil changes, hunt leaks: damp hoses, wet seals, oily arms. Fix and clean.
When: Every 5–7k miles or after impacts.
Result: Tighter geometry and fewer clunks.
Action: Add “leak check” to oil-change routine.
8) Don’t Hold Full Steering Lock
Why: At full lock CV bearings scrape and boots stretch.
How: Back the wheel off one spoke from full lock.
When: Parking lots and cold mornings.
Result: Longer CV life.
Action: Make “off a spoke” your new habit.
7) Touch Up Spring Paint Chips
Why: Bare coil steel rusts and can snap.
How: Wire-brush, apply rust converter, finish with flexible paint.
When: Spot chips; check spring/fall.
Result: Longer spring life and protected tires.
Action: Inspect coils when rotating tires.
6) Give It a Monthly Suspension Workout
Why: Sitting squashes bushings and dries seals.
How: Drive 10–15 miles monthly on smooth roads.
When: Spare or stored cars.
Result: Healthy seals and early leak detection.
Action: Calendar a monthly drive.
5) Replace Sway-Bar End Links Proactively
Why: Clunks over seams are usually tired links. Ignoring them stresses mounts.
How: Replace both links together; torque at ride height.
When: 70–90k miles; sooner in salted areas.
Result: Quieter ride and less stress on arms.
Action: If you hear clunks, price links before it worsens.
4) Clear Cowl & Sunroof Drains
Why: Clogged drains pool water above strut towers and rot them.
How: In spring/fall, feed trimmer line through drains and flush.
When: Every 6 months or after leaf fall.
Result: Dry towers, no hidden rust.
Action: Add drain cleaning to your checklist.
3) Warm Up Tires Gently in Cold
Why: Below 40°F, rubber stiffens and pressure drops.
How: Drive gently for first 3–5 miles; check pressures monthly.
When: Cold mornings and winter.
Result: Fewer harsh hits, better grip, longer tire life.
Action: Keep a gauge in the glovebox.
2) Inspect After a Big Hit
Why: One pothole can start delayed failures costing $600+ later.
How: After a harsh bang, check for oil on struts, fresh paint chips, wheel wobble, and tire bulges.
When: After any big hit or curb strike.
Result: Catch cheap fixes early.
Action: Add a 5-minute post-impact walk-around to your habits.
1) Run Your VIN for Free Fixes
Why: Recalls and TSBs cover known suspension issues for free.
How: Quarterly, enter your VIN on your automaker’s recall page or NHTSA site.
When: Every 3 months or before major service.
Result: Free fixes that keep suspension bulletproof.
Action: Save your VIN and set a quarterly reminder.
Want a smoother, safer drive?
Grab the complete Road-Ready Kit — a 10-page printable checklist that keeps your car in top shape and helps you prevent costly suspension and tire problems before they start.
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